Walking north along the Via Colombo for several kilometres I find a path leading to the beach. The sand is too hot to walk in bare feet!! Reaching the shoreline of the beautiful Mediterranean the flip flops come off and I walk south through the gentle waves.There seem to be many Italian families on holiday and I overhear a few German voices. Eventually I reach the small strip of public beach near to the centre of Lido di Camaiore.This is the only free beach in the area and is very clean, has umbrellas, showers and toilets. There are also lifeguards on patrol . But it is extremely busy and crowded. As I return to the Hotel I call in to the small alimentari and purchase water and a few essentials. This gives me a chance to try out my Italian!I Arriving back in my room I suspect mosquitos and take appropriate action!!

Dinner is not served before 8:00 p.m. - such a civilised hour and the restaurant is in a semi basement which is cool. Dinner which is served by Monica (another of Claudio's relatives) and cooked by his wife Loretta turns out to be supurb. Anti pasta came on 3 separate dishes, slivers of smoked salmon with salad, mushroom salad and crostini topped with various vegetables. As usual there is a basket of bread and a large bowl of mixed salad. First course is pasta shells with fish. Main course is scallopino with shallots in a rich sauce (very sweet). Dessert is a custard like concoction. The wine -a bottle of white Verdicchio. At Claudio's invitation the evening is finished of with a large glass of Merlot of Verona (Bello).

As the first day ends and I lie on my bed I conclude that little has changed either at the hotel or in Lido di Camaiore!

At the "CLAP" office I decide to buy a weekly bus pass for 10 euros. This meant that I could be totally flexible with my travel arrangements and would not have to keep worrying about buying tickets.
I hop on a bus to Torre del Lago. About 15-20 minutes south of Viareggio.Slightly inland can be found Lago di Massaciuccoli. When I was there it was a haven of tranquility, completely calm the lake, with its mountain backdrop, acted as a mirror for everything surrounding it. Next to the lake is the pretty Villa which was the home of the composer Puccini.

I had imagined that the sea front at Torre would be within walking distance. This was not the case and I took a bus from the Lake to the "main town" of Torre del Lago. From there a long walk along the Viale Kennedy with pine forests on each side eventually arriving at the seafront. Hear there are a few shops but it is relatively underdeveloped, Nevertheless on the beach there are the usual rows and rows of umbrellas. The beach here is wide and the sand white and fine. Continuing to walk north along the Viale Europa the road suddenly ends as I arrive at the boundary of the natural park.
The beach here is totally uncommercial. Behind the beach is an are of low sand dunes and beyond that an expansive forest that effectively divides Torre from Viareggio.

It is around lunchtime and all is very quiet. But somehow quieter than usual. Suddenly I hear an enormous cry from every bar and cafe along the sea front. It seems that all the locals have taken time out to watch Italy play Mexico in the World Cup.
I stop in an Italian imitation of McDonalds and have a cheeseburger and fanta (3.90 euros) I see the score on the TV Italy 0 Mexico 1. Oh dear!!
Continuing to walk north along the promenade another cheer goes up. Italy have equalised (phew!!)
Several minutes later the full time whistle blows and the promenade is soon awash with bikes and cars blowing their horns and waving flags.

I continue to walk all the way back to Lido di Camaiore and the Hotel where I am greeted by Paula the afternoon receptionist. I tell her about my day and she can't believe the distance I have walked. I can, my feet provide any necessary evidence! and what a relief to get out of sticky clothes and luxuriate in the shower.I also appreciate that my room benefits from being in the shade.
A glutton for punishment I have a brief walk before dinner and find the local tourist information office which usefully supplies details of inernet cafes.

Dinner was spectacular:
Anti pasta - crescent with cheese and ham, mini pizza, zucchini stuffed with pate
Prima - ribbons of pasta with aspargi and prawns in a light white sauce
Secondo - grilled pollo with rosemary potatoes
Dolce - almond torte
Wine - Chianti AOC

No problem dropping off to sleep!

The station at La Spezia is reasonably close to the town centre. Today is market day and the streets are busy. I buy a large beach towel for 10 euros. Steep filghts of steps lead from the shopping area to one of the residential parts of town. There is a small covered market with colourful fruit vegetable and flower stalls.The main shopping area is traffic free and very pleasant. The pedestrian zone is in the course of being further extended. The town is surrounded by hills and mountains.
Beyond the shopping area is a well maintained park with an impressive statue . The harbour front gardens provide a relaxing place to sit. Then there is the water front lined with palm trees. From here small ferries leave for trips to the islands.
A small pavement cafe provides lunch - panini (cheese and tomato) for 2.60 euros. Sitting on the promenade it is possible to see in the far distance the naval dockyards. walking around the town it had been evident that La Spezia was home to the navy as lots of sailors could be seen in their brilliant white uniforms
On returning to Lido di Camaiore I check out the local information centre and am able to access the internet for free for uo to 20 minutes. Just long enough to check the email!
Dinner is classic melon with ham, spinach and cheese ravioli with a light tomato sauce, thinly sliced rare roast beef with croquette type potatoes and tiramasu.
After a slow walk enjoying the warm evening air and the heady smell of jasmine I return to the hotel for coffee with Claudio and Nicolas..............

Although strategiically placed on the highway network Castelnuovo is a bit of a disappointment. I take the road south towards Bagni di Lucca - stopping off to view a fascinating medieval bridge.

Eventually arriving in Lucca. This special town is surrounded by a wall and within are many narrow streets and historical buildings. Somewhat like Venezia in miniature - but without the canals!

After leaving Lucca I head for the beach at Torre de Lago. It is the weekend and the area is heaving with trippers!

I am pleased to return to the hotel. Dinner is another gourmet affair.
Anti Pasti - Mixed seafood (seppia, prawn and anchovy) with a mixed salad, Spinach tart, Bruschetta pomodoro
Primo - Gnocci with light creamy tomato sauce
Secondo - Chunks of beef in a rich dark sauce with various grilled vegetables.
There is no room for dolce!

Claudio joins me and we share a wonderful bottle of Tuscan Chardonnay. Afterwards we join Loretta and some friends and sit in the garden, Claudio tells me about his career in the Navy and how he came to own the hotel. He is anxious to improve his english speaking and regaled me with tales of his time in England during the Winter when he had attended a language school.

But I am not troubled as I want to be away early for a trip to Siena. I find that the journey is longer and more tiring than I anticipated. However, I would not have missed it for anything.

Siena has to be on a par with Firenze in terms of its architectural gems. Every entrance to the town involves walking up a steep hill. The temperature was in the low 80's F and by the time I reached the summit I was totally breathless and sweating profusely! But it was worth it. Walking in to the Piazza Il Campo is an experience that I will never forget, the space, the colour the unique atmosphere. And, as if by arrangement a local contrade is parading around the town in their medieval costumes, with brightly coloured flags and with drums beating. Just magic!

Leaving Siena, the return journey is through the glorious countryside that in the UK we call "Chiantishire". This nickname is quite appropriate as the surroundings are very similar to many English Counties. The only difference being the language, the architecture and the weather!

Arriving back in the Viareggio area the roads are clogged with visitors trying to return home after a day at the seaside.
Dinner was to be Meats with salad sprinkled with shavings of a sharp cheese. Pasta spirals with a "hot" sauce and pesce. Main course grilled salmon with spinach. To finsih fresh fruit and gelato.
To end the evening a walk down the promenade - people watching - the air just so very warm

Mid afternoon and I realise that I have maybe overdone the sun bathing. From the Viareggio side of the Viale Europe bus 9 goes to the town centre - but being the mad man I am I decide to walk! This being mainly due to the infrequency of the bus service.
Back in my hotel room I see just how much I have burnt in the sun - I have turned a lobster like colour!
Dinner is a couscous with tomatoes, cheese, olives and onions with a tomato stuffed with vegetable salad. Next, tortellini filled with pork accompanied by peas and ham. Then scallopina with a red pepper sauce and haricot beans with rosemary. Finally, torte.
To end the day another stroll down the elegant promenade at Lido di Camaoire.
A couple of photos of the natural beach.

It is time to leave the magical Hotel Club i Pini. I say farewell to Monica and am rewarded with the honour of 3 kisses on the cheek!
Here are a couple of photos of the hotel.
Claudio kindly drives me to the railway station at Viareggio. Despite a slight delay I am soon returning to Pisa where I had intended to spend a few hours before going on to the airport for my homeward flight.
This was not to be practical. Once again there was no left luggage facility at Pisa Centrale Railway Station (This had also been the situation on my last visit in January 2002).
It is just too hot to hang around and so I reluctantly decide to bus it to the airport and wait to return home in air conditioned comfort.
But there is a problem. An air traffic controllers strike in France is causing enormous problems. Virtually every flight on the departure board is marked "Cancelled". The Ryanair flight to Stansted is marked "Delayed". What a relief!! And so it was to be - 3 hours late the plane took off. The Captain remarking that he thought we had been very lucky!!