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Guide in Toscana
Guide in Tuscany
(Recommended Holiday)
Tuscany Trips
Tuscany & Versilia
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Recommended by our guest: Harrison (Ford) |
The irresistible Ryanair
had done it again - yes £3.50 to Pisa from Stansted.
An
early morning start and the journey from the Midlands to the airport
is around 3 hours.It is a cool damp gloomy morning. The extension
to the airport terminal has been completed and as a result the
shops and facilities on the departure side are much more extensive.
As with all Ryanair flights it is a bit of a scrum to get on the
plane - and departure is slightly delayed. By way of an extra
service the crew provide a running commentary on the England-v-Nigeria
World Cup Football fixture. (On landing the Captain announces
the final score 0 0)It was fantastic to emerge from the plane
and once again be bathed in that luxurious Tuscan heat. Blazing
sun and cloudless azure blue skies.Unfortunately due to the delay
I had missed my train connection to Pisa Centrale. Undaunted I
still bought my return rail ticket to Viareggio (4.80 euros) and
a bus ticket to Pisa Centrale (0.77 cents)
The No. 3 bus runs from the airport to the railway station and
takes about 10 minutes. It is invariably crowded. At Pisa Centrale
a train arrives to speed me to Viareggio by noon in under 20 minutes. |
Hotel
Club I Pini |
A
taxi from the station to the magical Charme Hotel
Club i Pini in Lido di Camaiore takes less than 15 minutes
and costs 10 euros. Checking in is something of a reunion
with the owner Claudio. This is my second visit and I am
greeted like an old friend. I am whisked up the stairs to
a second floor room at the rear of the hotel. At first sight
the room is disappointingly small and basic. However, it
has all the essentials and is clean. The unpacking is completed
very quickly followed by a cappucino with Claudio and his
son Nicolas. |
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As I ventured out into Lido di Camaiore it was lunchtime and after
the journey I was starting to feel hungry. A rosticceria around
the corner supplied take away freshly fried fish in batter with
roasted peppers (5.03 euros). |
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This was rapidly consumed as I sat on a bench on the promenade
basking in the sun! But it was hot and there I was with my jeans
and trainers. A visit to to a local clothes shop and quick change
in to a pair of jazzy shorts (20 euros) and a pair of flip flops
(10 euros) . Much more comfortable! Much of the promenade and
beach is taken up by private bathing establishments.Most have
well maintained grounds with bright flower beds. The promenade
itself is well looked after, the benches all newly painted and
the flower beds and open spaces looking very good.
Walking
north along the Via Colombo for several kilometres I find a path
leading to the beach. The sand is too hot to walk in bare feet!!
Reaching the shoreline of the beautiful Mediterranean the flip
flops come off and I walk south through the gentle waves.There
seem to be many Italian families on holiday and I overhear a few
German voices. Eventually I reach the small strip of public beach
near to the centre of Lido di Camaiore.This is the only free beach
in the area and is very clean, has umbrellas, showers and toilets.
There are also lifeguards on patrol . But it is extremely busy
and crowded. As I return to the Hotel I call in to the small alimentari
and purchase water and a few essentials. This gives me a chance
to try out my Italian!I Arriving back in my room I suspect mosquitos
and take appropriate action!!
Dinner
is not served before 8:00 p.m. - such a civilised hour and the
restaurant is in a semi basement which is cool. Dinner which is
served by Monica (another of Claudio's relatives) and cooked by
his wife Loretta turns out to be supurb. Anti pasta came on 3
separate dishes, slivers of smoked salmon with salad, mushroom
salad and crostini topped with various vegetables. As usual there
is a basket of bread and a large bowl of mixed salad. First course
is pasta shells with fish. Main course is scallopino with shallots
in a rich sauce (very sweet). Dessert is a custard like concoction.
The wine -a bottle of white Verdicchio. At Claudio's invitation
the evening is finished of with a large glass of Merlot of Verona
(Bello).
As
the first day ends and I lie on my bed I conclude that little
has changed either at the hotel or in Lido di Camaiore!
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Thursday
I awake to open the wooden shutters of my room and see once again
brilliant blue skies and sunshine. A
simple buffet breakfast is to be par for the course during my
stay.The previous day I had checked out the times of buses to
Viareggio. A ticket lasting one hour is purchased for 80 cents
from a local tobacconists. The bus journey takes about 20 minutes
to get to the main bus terminal in Viareggio.
At
the "CLAP" office I decide to buy a weekly bus pass
for 10 euros. This meant that I could be totally flexible with
my travel arrangements and would not have to keep worrying about
buying tickets.
I hop on a bus to Torre del Lago. About 15-20 minutes south of
Viareggio.Slightly inland can be found Lago di Massaciuccoli.
When I was there it was a haven of tranquility, completely calm
the lake, with its mountain backdrop, acted as a mirror for everything
surrounding it. Next to the lake is the pretty Villa which was
the home of the composer Puccini.
I had imagined that the sea front at Torre would be within walking
distance. This was not the case and I took a bus from the Lake
to the "main town" of Torre del Lago. From there a long
walk along the Viale Kennedy with pine forests on each side eventually
arriving at the seafront. Hear there are a few shops but it is
relatively underdeveloped, Nevertheless on the beach there are
the usual rows and rows of umbrellas. The beach here is wide and
the sand white and fine. Continuing to walk north along the Viale
Europa the road suddenly ends as I arrive at the boundary of the
natural park.
The beach here is totally uncommercial. Behind the beach is an
are of low sand dunes and beyond that an expansive forest that
effectively divides Torre from Viareggio. |
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Walking
northwards through the forest for an hour or more I am relieved
tp arrive at the outskirts of Viareggio, near to the commercial
port. Here there is much evidence of the marine industry and boat
building and supplies. Carrying on towards the town centre there
is the main harbour where a number of luxury yachts are berthed.
I walk a little further and arrive on the main promenade with
its art deco pavilions and chic shops and eateries. |
It
is around lunchtime and all is very quiet. But somehow quieter
than usual. Suddenly I hear an enormous cry from every bar and
cafe along the sea front. It seems that all the locals have taken
time out to watch Italy play Mexico in the World Cup.
I stop in an Italian imitation of McDonalds and have a cheeseburger
and fanta (3.90 euros) I see the score on the TV Italy 0 Mexico
1. Oh dear!!
Continuing to walk north along the promenade another cheer goes
up. Italy have equalised (phew!!)
Several minutes later the full time whistle blows and the promenade
is soon awash with bikes and cars blowing their horns and waving
flags.
I
continue to walk all the way back to Lido di Camaiore and the
Hotel where I am greeted by Paula the afternoon receptionist.
I tell her about my day and she can't believe the distance I have
walked. I can, my feet provide any necessary evidence! and what
a relief to get out of sticky clothes and luxuriate in the shower.I
also appreciate that my room benefits from being in the shade.
A glutton for punishment I have a brief walk before dinner and
find the local tourist information office which usefully supplies
details of inernet cafes.
Dinner
was spectacular:
Anti pasta - crescent with cheese and ham, mini pizza, zucchini
stuffed with pate
Prima - ribbons of pasta with aspargi and prawns in a light white
sauce
Secondo - grilled pollo with rosemary potatoes
Dolce - almond torte
Wine - Chianti AOC
No problem dropping off to sleep!
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Friday
The weather is still hot and sunny. The No.12 bus takes me from
Lido di Camaiore to Viareggio railway station where I buy a return
ticket to La Spezia (7.10 euros). Journey time approximately 1
hour. The Tourist information centre in the main booking hall
of the station is very helpful and has english speaking staff.
The
station at La Spezia is reasonably close to the town centre. Today
is market day and the streets are busy. I buy a large beach towel
for 10 euros. Steep filghts of steps lead from the shopping area
to one of the residential parts of town. There is a small covered
market with colourful fruit vegetable and flower stalls.The main
shopping area is traffic free and very pleasant. The pedestrian
zone is in the course of being further extended. The town is surrounded
by hills and mountains.
Beyond the shopping area is a well maintained park with an impressive
statue . The harbour front gardens provide a relaxing place to
sit. Then there is the water front lined with palm trees. From
here small ferries leave for trips to the islands.
A small pavement cafe provides lunch - panini (cheese and tomato)
for 2.60 euros. Sitting on the promenade it is possible to see
in the far distance the naval dockyards. walking around the town
it had been evident that La Spezia was home to the navy as lots
of sailors could be seen in their brilliant white uniforms
On returning to Lido di Camaiore I check out the local information
centre and am able to access the internet for free for uo to 20
minutes. Just long enough to check the email!
Dinner is classic melon with ham, spinach and cheese ravioli with
a light tomato sauce, thinly sliced rare roast beef with croquette
type potatoes and tiramasu.
After a slow walk enjoying the warm evening air and the heady
smell of jasmine I return to the hotel for coffee with Claudio
and Nicolas..............
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Saturday
Another beautiful day dawns. Today is to be
a trip through the mountains! Passing Forti di Marmi and travelling
inland through the area near Carrera famous for its marble, the
town of Massa is the gateway to roads leading up to the mountain
passes which would take me to Castelnuovo. The winding road rises
steeply and passes several villages that hug the hillsides, eventually
reaching the summit.
Although
strategiically placed on the highway network Castelnuovo is a
bit of a disappointment. I take the road south towards Bagni di
Lucca - stopping off to view a fascinating medieval bridge.
Eventually
arriving in Lucca. This special town is surrounded by a wall and
within are many narrow streets and historical buildings. Somewhat
like Venezia in miniature - but without the canals!
After
leaving Lucca I head for the beach at Torre de Lago. It is the
weekend and the area is heaving with trippers!
I
am pleased to return to the hotel. Dinner is another gourmet affair.
Anti Pasti - Mixed seafood (seppia, prawn and anchovy) with a
mixed salad, Spinach tart, Bruschetta pomodoro
Primo - Gnocci with light creamy tomato sauce
Secondo - Chunks of beef in a rich dark sauce with various grilled
vegetables.
There is no room for dolce!
Claudio
joins me and we share a wonderful bottle of Tuscan Chardonnay.
Afterwards we join Loretta and some friends and sit in the garden,
Claudio tells me about his career in the Navy and how he came
to own the hotel. He is anxious to improve his english speaking
and regaled me with tales of his time in England during the Winter
when he had attended a language school.
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Sunday
The Hotel is the fullest it has been since
my arrival. All the tables are set for breakfast. Even the ones
in the hallway!
But
I am not troubled as I want to be away early for a trip to Siena.
I find that the journey is longer and more tiring than I anticipated.
However, I would not have missed it for anything.
Siena
has to be on a par with Firenze in terms of its architectural
gems. Every entrance to the town involves walking up a steep hill.
The temperature was in the low 80's F and by the time I reached
the summit I was totally breathless and sweating profusely! But
it was worth it. Walking in to the Piazza Il Campo is an experience
that I will never forget, the space, the colour the unique atmosphere.
And, as if by arrangement a local contrade is parading around
the town in their medieval costumes, with brightly coloured flags
and with drums beating. Just magic!
Leaving
Siena, the return journey is through the glorious countryside
that in the UK we call "Chiantishire". This nickname
is quite appropriate as the surroundings are very similar to many
English Counties. The only difference being the language, the
architecture and the weather!
Arriving
back in the Viareggio area the roads are clogged with visitors
trying to return home after a day at the seaside.
Dinner was to be Meats with salad sprinkled with shavings of a
sharp cheese. Pasta spirals with a "hot" sauce and pesce.
Main course grilled salmon with spinach. To finsih fresh fruit
and gelato.
To end the evening a walk down the promenade - people watching
- the air just so very warm
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Monday
The final couple of days were intended for complete rest! The
beach at Lido di Camaiore was very busy and so I decide to opt
to travel to the natural beach between Viareggio and Torre del
Lago. This involves a bus ride into Viareggio and then a long
walk along Viale Tigli and through the forest to get to the beach.
Here I find a solitary spot in the sand dunes, lay down and enjoy
some serious sun bathing! The temperature is 35C, clear blue skies
and a searing sun!
This is a truly magical place no crowds, no noise, no shops and
no umbrellas!!
After lunch I encounter Luigi. He was a real beachcomber travelling
from Florence every day to enjoy this beautiful area.
Mid
afternoon and I realise that I have maybe overdone the sun bathing.
From the Viareggio side of the Viale Europe bus 9 goes to the
town centre - but being the mad man I am I decide to walk! This
being mainly due to the infrequency of the bus service.
Back in my hotel room I see just how much I have burnt in the
sun - I have turned a lobster like colour!
Dinner is a couscous with tomatoes, cheese, olives and onions
with a tomato stuffed with vegetable salad. Next, tortellini filled
with pork accompanied by peas and ham. Then scallopina with a
red pepper sauce and haricot beans with rosemary. Finally, torte.
To end the day another stroll down the elegant promenade at Lido
di Camaoire.
A couple of photos of the natural beach.
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Tuesday
Following the excesses of the previous day I decide to stay in
Lido di Camaiore and meekly hire a sun bed and umbrella from one
of the many bagni along the sea front. This costs the sum of 13
Euros.
I
stay there all day!
The staff at the hotel have been so kind that I locate a local
florist and purchase a bouquet of flowers which I duly present
to Monica and Loretta. They are touched and pleased by my simple
gesture.
The last supper is to be ham with tomatoes and a separate dish
of pieces of smoked salmon. Then there is pasta and the main course
of chicken stew. Dessert a wonderful chantilly con fragole.
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Wednesday
At last - the end of the trip.
It
is time to leave the magical Hotel Club i Pini. I say farewell
to Monica and am rewarded with the honour of 3 kisses on the cheek!
Here are a virtual tour
of photos of the hotel.
Claudio kindly drives me to the railway station at Viareggio.
Despite a slight delay I am soon returning to Pisa where I had
intended to spend a few hours before going on to the airport for
my homeward flight.
This was not to be practical. Once
again there was no left luggage facility at Pisa Centrale Railway
Station (This had also been the situation on my last visit in
January 2002).
It is just too hot to hang around
and so I reluctantly decide to bus it to the airport and wait
to return home in air conditioned comfort.
But there is a problem. An air
traffic controllers strike in France is causing enormous problems.
Virtually every flight on the departure board is marked "Cancelled".
The Ryanair flight to Stansted is marked "Delayed".
What a relief!! And so it was to be - 3 hours late the plane took
off. The Captain remarking that he thought we had been very lucky!!
Tuscany Guide - Guide Tuscany - Accommodation Tuscany
Charming Hotel i Pini-Tuscany
"Hotel with top conforts and also museum inside "
The Hotels small restaurant offers regional, typical Tuscany cousine
featuring fish and seafood and meat and vetable menu.
; Loretta Degl'innocenti, chef of Villa Chini, has been a professional cook
since she was jung, in different restaurant of the Versilia region where she
was born. A well known representer of the traditional cuisine, her recipes
rediscover the tastes of the folk cuisine. The first German tv net (ARD) had
shown her classes several times in the year 2000 -2001-2002 2005 programs.
The fresh groceries personally, guaranteeing the quality and freshness of
the products from the start. Loretta and Laura, offers the classic dishes
of Mediterranean and traditional cuisine that she personalizes with
taste of very old and good tuscany cousine
The restaurant always offers an extensive starter, first course, second course
and vegetables, home-made cakes and desserts. The wine list includes wines
from Tuscany, as well as other regions, selections including
the finest italian wines.; Monica and Claudio are your sommelier to advise
you on the proper wine for your meal The American bar serves Italian
and international cocktails and Wines.
The generous buffet breakfast is served on an enchanting outdoor garden
The hotel has a ample parking, big garden , internet Hiless A playground
area is available for children.Bagno amore linking beach , one of
the nicest and most exclusive beaches in lido di camaiore is available for
hotel guests.
Property Facilities Summary:
Banquets Bar
Bicycle Rentals Concierge Service
Excursions Fax Service
Private Parking
Private Transfer To / From Airport Private Transfer To / From Bus ztation
Private Transfer To / From City Private Transfer To / From Rail Station
Restaurant Ticket Reservation Service
Nearby Facilities
is located in Lido di Camaiore Seaside Coast Tuscany the most
exclusive beach resort of the Versilia coast. For those who do notlike to
is an 18 hole golf course only 10 km from the hotel. One of the many
spend their vacation lying on the beach, there are many alternatives.There tennis
clubs in the area is only a few hundred metres away. The nearby pine park of
Versiliana also has an outdoor theatre that operates from mid-July through
the end of August. During this same period, the outdoor theatre in Torre del
Lago, approximately 10 km from the hotel, offers Festival Pucciniano,which
attracts music lovers from all over the world. The athletic field and track
is only 1 km from the hotel, and at 9 km there is a go-kart track where you
can race minibikes, supermotards and go-karts. The Apuane Alp, only a few
kilometers from the coast, offer infinite opportunities for walks, trekking
mountain bike routes. For culture, history and art lovers, there are many
excellent destinations: Lucca, Pisa, Florence, Siena, San Gimignano,
Volterra, Carrara, all easy to reach by car, train, or bus
lido di camaiore only 20 minutes away from Pisa International
Airport, where you can take a train from the airport to viareggio , or ask
us to pick you up at a special discounted rate.or
If you are flying to Florence airport take a bus or taxi to the Santa Maria
Novella Florence train station.Take a train to viareggio At any major
Italian airport you can also rent from the many rental companies.
Tuscany Guide - Guide Tuscany - Accommodation Tuscany
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